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Twist Collective Blog

Designer Post: Trondheim


headshot Heather Pfeifer

Today's post comes to you courtesy of Heather Pfeifer, designer of the stunning Trondheim pullover from our newest issue. This is Heather's first design with Twist, and we are thrilled to have it. Having a diagonal cable across the front of the sweater makes it a teeny bit more complicated if you want to customize the shape or fit of this sweater, but Heather is here to help! Read about her inspiration and her ideas for shaping mods below. Find more of her designs here.





Working with Twist for the first time has been an exciting adventure down a new path in my life. I worked in clothing retail for more years than I care to remember, dressing the bodies of babies, kids, and men but primarily women – from young adults, to pregnant moms-to-be, to seniors. I’ve seen pretty well every body shape and noticed a few tips along the way.



back and shoulders



When I began knitting in 2007 and designing in 2012, I pulled those tips out of the dusty corner and got to work. If I was going to take the time and knit a garment for myself, then it had to be just right. I know exactly what I do and don’t like about sweaters. I do like ones that cover my bottom, but I don’t like needing to pull them down every time I stand up. I prefer visual lines that make me seem taller. It’s all about those proportions. For Trondheim, a vertical cable was the only way to go.

But to fit the triple cable, a perfectly vertical, off-centre panel would have created a wider horizontal view, which was definitely not what I wanted. Asymmetry and diagonal features work both vertically and horizontally, disrupting a continuous view of hip-width and adding interest to distract from a narrower bust width. I don’t like sweaters that fall across my widest point, I prefer ones that begin just below or just above that point. 



cable and front



Trondheim uses A-line shaping to move from a wide hip to a narrow bust. A double-curve shaping just wouldn’t work with the diagonal cable. It would have resulted in the cable panel moving left or right at unexpected places and pull or pucker.


The sweater is meant to be comfortable and not very clingy, so positive ease is worked into the sizing. It’s alright to have more ease at the bust than the hip, so when choosing a size pick one that is an inch or two larger than your hip measurement. If the bust measurement is within 3” of your body bust, the sweater will have the intended fit.



full sweater shot



If the measurements seem too great of a difference and you want to modify the shaping, here are my tips.


-the number of rows worked must not change for the hip size you choose. The cable begins at a calculated point so it ends at the left shoulder;


-more side decreases could be added but this affects the shoulder back width, the neck opening and ultimately the number of stitches remaining for the left shoulder; so if you decide to do this, it's best to work to the next bust size then follow those instructions for splitting the sleeves and neck opening.



sleeve and hem detail



Two different sleeves also add to the asymmetry of the tunic. The sleeves can easily both be stockinette, particularly if you wish to shorten the underarm length. Whether the cabled sleeve is on the right or left is also a personal preference.



Twist Style Friday: Hemingway

Every Friday we feature one of the garments from the magazine in a post about styling. We suggest different ways to wear the garment in question using mock-ups from Polyvore. We encourage readers to tell us what they think about these outfits via our Facebook page or Twitter, and if folks want to make their own outfits, please tweet them at us with the hashtag #twiststyle. You can find all of the Style Friday posts here.



Happy Friday fashion friends!


This week brought the first chilly-ish days of fall to Toronto. I wore a jacket one time. I love jackets. This is my ideal time for patio dinners, park picnics, long walks, bike rides! This season even sometimes makes me feel like jogging (I don't actually jog, I just revel in the knowledge that I could jog). I have also been wearing boots. Boots!! I wore both of those things to a fancy movie premiere at TIFF on Tuesday night. If you get the opportunity to see Charlie Kaufman's new stop-motion animation film- YOU SHOULD.


This is precisely the right time to start knitting a cozy sweater. As the weather gets chillier, you will knit more, and you will be more excited to wear (or gift, I suppose) the finished product. If the sweater you choose is Hemingway, you won't be sorry.



textured pullover with shawl collar



She's a quick knit in squishy worsted yarn. Hemingway has a lovely allover texture, and a fetching little shawl collar too. She is the perfect warm layer to bring on that fall camping trip, or to sit on the porch when it's just a little too cold to be sitting on the porch.



back view



I've been told, on occasion, that my sense of style can lean towards the overly twee. Today my friends, I present you with a collection of outfits I'm calling OVERLY TWEED!  Groan at my terrible pun all you like, those patent capped tweed pumps are incredible, and the multidirectional plaid skirt in the middle is cute as heck.



three tweedy outfits




How will you wear Hemingway?

Throwback Thursday: Mata Hari

Happy #throwbackthursday Twistfans!


We are flashing back this week to Winter 2010, to one of my favorite photostories we have ever done: Designer's Choice; what would our regulars knit for themselves? Six talented knitting designers designed, made, and modeled things for themselves. I love the human stuff about knitting and working with knitters. For me, knitting is intimately connected to some of my important friendships. We knit with people, and we knit for people. The projects we choose for ourselves have a bit of a magic quality to them.


Also since Twist works with people literally all over the world, so many of the folks who work together to make this magazine happen have never met in person! I found it really charming to see designers wearing a special thing they made with themselves in mind, and also sharing it with the rest of us. Some of our most popular patterns come from this story, and I think some of that is about the magic I'm talking about. These objects are full of love, and it's obvious.


Here is one stunner from that collection; Marnie MacLean's Mata Hari.



Mara Hari, worn with the deep V in the backV in the front



Oh, did I mention that this sweater is reversible? That's right, you can wear the gorgeous deep V in the front or the back. Never mind that the recommended yarn is a wool-silk blend (my kryptonite) with an almost shockingly high proportion of silk (39%!!!).



removable bow



I love Mata Hari's simple shape, the sleeve length, and the removable bow. This is a top you can wear a lot of different ways, but all of them are simple, pretty, and elegant. I would wear this, boatneck to the front, with a foofy crinolined shirt and heeled maryjanes, or deep V to the front with black and white graphic skinny pants (like these) and chunky ankle boots.



sweater and dog



Ideally any outfit should go well with Marnie's adorable pups.



Twist Style Friday: Philodendron

Every Friday we feature one of the garments from the magazine in a post about styling. We suggest different ways to wear the garment in question using mock-ups from Polyvore. We encourage readers to tell us what they think about these outfits via our Facebook page or Twitter, and if folks want to make their own outfits, please tweet them at us with the hashtag #twiststyle. You can find all of the Style Friday posts here.



Happy Friday fashion fans!!


I was in a pretty serious fashion pickle last weekend. I was in New York for a wedding. My darling friend Eli, who has been in my life for 15 years, tied the knot with his love at Queens Farm, as tiny little ponies strolled by and a perfect summer breeze blew. The weather that day was literally perfect. The rest of the weekend however, was hotter than I can even describe - and more humid too - like wading through hot soup. I was not prepared to dress for that (I'm not sure I know how to dress for that, my body was definitely made for colder climates), so I had three tops, a skirt, and a pair of cropped pants that I could wear semi comfortably.  Whether I was getting tattooed in Greenpoint, having brunch in Williamsburg, eating oysters in Gowanus, or seeing a Tony-winning musical (based on a graphic novel), I wore the same five things.


The outfits I made for this week's sweater - Philodendron - are kind of like that. You could mix and match any of the pieces and accessories and they would work together well. It's almost a capsule wardrobe.



three outfits



Now let's take a closer look at this stunning sweater






I love how the leaf motif travels vertically on the back and horizontally on the front. It gives the sweater a kind of asymmetry without actually being asymmetrical. The sleeves are also awfully pretty.



sleeve detail



I really recommend wearing something bright or even a little sparkly underneath to peek out through the lace.



lace detail



How will you wear Philodendron?






Throwback Thursday: Celandine

Do you remember what you were doing in the summer of 2010? I was moving from Montreal to Toronto, and adjusting to a new pace of life in a new city. It was overwhelming, and I did a LOT of knitting and jogging to keep busy. I needed projects that felt really quick and productive; instant gratification knitting. I made a lot of hats.


What I really wanted to make was this:






This was before I was an avid sock knitter, when I was scared of projects that used small needles. Now Celandine seems like a really well balanced project to me! The lace medallions require some concentration, but you make a bunch of them so you'd get quicker at it as you went, and then aside from some pretty shaping, the main body is super simple to knit. Plus if you're making it in the suggested yarn or something of a similar fiber content, every stitch would be a dream to knit. Silk is just amazing to work with.






This isn't a super simple or super speedy project, but if you're looking for a bit of a challenge, and a totally stunning result, I think Celandine might be just the lady for you.