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Twist Collective Blog

Design Process: Cecchetti

Cross posted from MarnieMacLean.com

I talked about Damariscotta in my last post. This time, I'll be talking about Cecchetti

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Most of my designs are either inspired by a detail I've seen around which I build a garment or they are an interpretation of a theme or idea someone has proposed. In this case, Cecchetti may somewhat fit the former category but in many ways it's an interpretation of a sort of nostalgia I feel for things that aren't so much a part of my life these days.

Cecchetti Original Cecchetti Sketch

I'm a little bit bottom heavy (perhaps "pear shaped" is a more acceptable description) and I have always found drape neck designs, with their delicate folds of fabric framing the face, to be quite flattering on my figure, especially layered under the many suit jackets I no longer wear, now that I work from home. (I'm not complaining, working in my PJs with my dogs by my feet, beats looking fashionable any day of the week.)

Inspiration for Cecchetti

Along with the subtle drape at the neck (for which I provide notes in the pattern for modifying it to be more or less draped) I also tried to capture the aesthetic of the warmup clothes my classmates and I used to wear when I (long ago) took ballet lessons. I was amazed at how overly long sleeves and leg-warmers, would make one's extensions and arm placements look even longer and more graceful. Cecchetti has a little more ease than those pieces I used to wear, and the soft, decadent silk and merino yarn is surely not meant for sweating and leaping, but the vertical body darts, sleeves that slip past the base of the hands and the hip length all serve to elongate and flatter the body. I think that people who knit this piece will find it very comfortable as well as flattering and very easy to modify as you go to get a good custom fit. As with most of my designs, it's knit seamlessly in the round, including the set in sleeves. And do not worry about it being all in reverse stockinette, the instructions allow you to knit it either right side (purl side) out or wrong side (knit side) out. Check out Cecchetti or any of the other beautiful Spring and Summer pieces over at Twist Collective.

Design Process: Damariscotta

Cross posted from MarnieMacLean.com

The Spring/Summer 2010 Twist Collective is up and it's visually stunning and filled with amazing designs. I was lucky enough to have two submissions accepted, and I will do a blog post for each.

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The first piece is Damariscotta

Original Damariscotta Sketch

Named for a hard to pronounce but lovely little town in Maine, near where my dad's family has land. I'll sometimes fly out to Maine to go to the Fiber Frolic with my mom, and we'll all stay at a little cabin that my dad built on the land there.

 

June 2009 -- Maine

 

Having grown up in New England and having spent plenty of time in Maine, I associate the area with a love for the ocean, a pragmatic sensibility, and a clean and structural design. I strove to capture those qualities in this top.

 

Damariscotta

 

The piece is knit from the top down with instructions for an entirely seamless construction, right down to the double-knit hems that are grafted closed. I've also included instructions for people who might run at the sight of the words "graft" or "double-knit" so don't despair if that's not your cup of tea. I also think this piece would be magnificent with a simple lace border around the hem and sleeves, instead of a finished hem shown. A wee bit of single crochet would prevent any curling and it would turn this simple piece into something worthy of a pretty pencil skirt and heels. While I love the idea of a deep angled square neck (image it over a pretty little lace tank,) I knew that wouldn't suit everyone and that is why I chose the top-down construction instead of my preferred method of knitting bottom up. Keeping in mind that the single crochet will pull in the neck a little, one can simply throw the live stitches onto waste yarn and try the piece on to determine the most comfortable and flattering neckline depth and width.

 

Damariscotta

Once you work the neckline you like best, you can shape the torso to follow every curve or leave out the shaping altogether for a more relaxed fit. The sleeves can be worked the same way, and can easily be lengthened to fit your climate and preference. So that's Damariscotta for you. I hope that those of you who like the design will enjoy knitting it, and if it's not your style, I have no doubt there's another piece in this issue that will catch your eye. 

Style Notebook: Timpani, Tough and Tender

So you fell for Connie Chang Chinchio's Timpani and you finished the knitting: now, how do you wear it?

It's an obvious choice to go with jeans as we showed in the magazine, but Timpani can also be a great topper for skirts, as long as you avoid anything that might make you look like a majorette. You can use it to bring out your sweet side, or your inner Chrissy Hyde-slash-Pink, depending on your musical currency. It's all in the mix. Keep the details to a minimum to let the sweater do most of the talking.




A Peek Pehind the (knit) Curtain

Right now, twist readers are looking at our Spring/Summer issue and hopefully planning to knit a project or two from the issue. Meanwhile, we're assembling the lineup for fall, thinking about the photo stories that will compliment the sweaters (and socks, natch') and assigning yarn. While we do that, Kate makes a collage of all our projects so we can see them side by side according to how we think they might work together in our editorial "stories." Here is one of the several drafts of our story board for the Spring/Summer issue we just published using shorthand from the design proposals as they might have been photographed together.


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You can see the lace story on the left, socks to the right (missing a few there, aren't we?), and the Greenhouse and Rock Formation stories sort of mingling together in the middle.  A lot got changed around there I remember now, looking at it.

Some stories don't necessarily work out the way we plan; in fact I don't recall an issue where something didn't get changed at the last minute. Sometimes we find a model who fits another sweater better, or isn't flattered by a shape or color, so things get moved around, and sometimes they even migrate to a whole other story, which sometimes can be a real nail biter. This last issue, we shot our far-flung stories in Massachusetts, upstate New York, Montreal, and the wilds of New Mexico. I was shipping sweaters out to Jamie in New Mexico the moment I knew they wouldn't work in my shoot, just in time for her to photograph it during hers. The schedule was tight, but everything worked out, and the US postal service was my super hero that week. It's times like those that I wish moving stuff around was as easy as it it to share ideas over the internet: I could really use the Starship Enterprise's transporter during shoot month. "Beam the sweater up, Scotty." But in the end, the spit and polish does wonders, and I am always delighted with the magic of Irene's work in layout. 

Now go knit something.

Spring Has Sprung

In case you missed April 1st, the new Spring/Summer issue is live and waiting in the usual place. And yes, you read that right: spring and summer are combined this time around, which means that there are loads of great projects to keep your needles busy until fall.  Happy knitting!


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