Today's post comes to you courtesy of Heather Pfeifer, designer of the stunning Trondheim pullover from our newest issue. This is Heather's first design with Twist, and we are thrilled to have it. Having a diagonal cable across the front of the sweater makes it a teeny bit more complicated if you want to customize the shape or fit of this sweater, but Heather is here to help! Read about her inspiration and her ideas for shaping mods below. Find more of her designs here.
Working with Twist for the first time has been an exciting adventure down a new path in my life. I worked in clothing retail for more years than I care to remember, dressing the bodies of babies, kids, and men but primarily women – from young adults, to pregnant moms-to-be, to seniors. I’ve seen pretty well every body shape and noticed a few tips along the way.
When I began knitting in 2007 and designing in 2012, I pulled those tips out of the dusty corner and got to work. If I was going to take the time and knit a garment for myself, then it had to be just right. I know exactly what I do and don’t like about sweaters. I do like ones that cover my bottom, but I don’t like needing to pull them down every time I stand up. I prefer visual lines that make me seem taller. It’s all about those proportions. For Trondheim, a vertical cable was the only way to go.
But to fit the triple cable, a perfectly vertical, off-centre panel would have created a wider horizontal view, which was definitely not what I wanted. Asymmetry and diagonal features work both vertically and horizontally, disrupting a continuous view of hip-width and adding interest to distract from a narrower bust width. I don’t like sweaters that fall across my widest point, I prefer ones that begin just below or just above that point.
Trondheim uses A-line shaping to move from a wide hip to a narrow bust. A double-curve shaping just wouldn’t work with the diagonal cable. It would have resulted in the cable panel moving left or right at unexpected places and pull or pucker.
The sweater is meant to be comfortable and not very clingy, so positive ease is worked into the sizing. It’s alright to have more ease at the bust than the hip, so when choosing a size pick one that is an inch or two larger than your hip measurement. If the bust measurement is within 3” of your body bust, the sweater will have the intended fit.
If the measurements seem too great of a difference and you want to modify the shaping, here are my tips.
-the number of rows worked must not change for the hip size you choose. The cable begins at a calculated point so it ends at the left shoulder;
-more side decreases could be added but this affects the shoulder back width, the neck opening and ultimately the number of stitches remaining for the left shoulder; so if you decide to do this, it's best to work to the next bust size then follow those instructions for splitting the sleeves and neck opening.
Two different sleeves also add to the asymmetry of the tunic. The sleeves can easily both be stockinette, particularly if you wish to shorten the underarm length. Whether the cabled sleeve is on the right or left is also a personal preference.